Recommended Tools

[kevinpatrick]

The Right Stuff to get the Job Done

Personal Safety

• Situational Awareness and Preparedness


• Protective Eyewear (Z87.1 minimum, Z87+ recommended)


• Protective Gloves (your SO will thank you)
  
  
  
  • Mechanic’s Style (bonus points for Kevlar)
  
  
  • Thick (9 mils) Nitrile for nasty stuff
  
  
  
  


• Hearing protection for the loud stuff (impact tools, mainly)


• Appropriate clothing


• Closed toe shoes (bonus for steel toe)

Wrenches

• Standard wrenches (bold means two recommended)
  
  
  
  • 8mm (closed)
  
  
  • 10mm
  
  
  • 11mm
  
  
  • 12mm
  
  
  • 13mm
  
  
  • 14mm
  
  
  • 15mm
  
  
  • 16mm
  
  
  • 17mm
  
  
  • 19mm
  
  
  
  


• Flare nut wrenches
  
  
  
  • 8mm
  
  
  • 10mm
  
  
  
  


• Ratcheting Wrenches (optional, but nice to have)
  
  
  
  • 10mm
  
  
  • 12mm
  
  
  • 14mm
  
  
  • 17mm
  
  
  
  

Sockets

• Sockets (both short and long, with appropriate socket wrench) (bonus for impact rated)
  
  
  
  • 8mm
  
  
  • 10mm
  
  
  • 11mm
  
  
  • 12mm
  
  
  • 13mm
  
  
  • 14mm
  
  
  • 15mm
  
  
  • 16mm
  
  
  • 17mm
  
  
  • 19mm
  
  
  • 21mm
  
  
  • 29mm (front axle nut, only required for fender install)
  
  
  • 32mm (rear axle nut, only required for fender install)
  
  
  
  


• We use ⅜” sockets for most everything, but the 19mm and larger sockets should explode less often with ½” sockets. Never use a “cheater bar” on a ratcheting socket wrench, you’ll break the socket wrench. Use a breaker bar.


• Impact Wrench (optional)
  
  
  
  • not required, but it will make the job much, much easier
  
  
  • We use a Dewalt 12V Li-Ion ⅜ drive impact wrench for disassembly. Yes, that little guy usually gets the big suspension and chassis bolts, even on early NAs. Anything requiring more gumption should probably be broken by a breaker bar and penetrant oil.
  
  
  
  

Specialty Tools

• 
  
  
  
  • PPF/Tub Splitting Process
    
    
    
    • Two-Post Lift
      
      
      
      • This is the best option. You can prepare everything beforehand, trailer the roller to a mechanic or friend’s shop, and do the actual separation within 30 minutes. Just be prepared to move the Miata tub afterwards.
      
      
      
      
    
    
    • Engine Hoist
      
      
      
      • The true grassroots method. All you need is an engine hoist, a load leveler (usually comes with a hoist), and two ~3’ lengths of chain
      
      
      
      
    
    
    
    
  
  
  • Specialty Tools
    
    
    
    • Punch (Spring loaded auto-punches are cheap and work well)
    
    
    • Rivet Gun
    
    
    • Fuel Line Quick Disconnect Tool
      
      
      
      • For some years
      
      
      
      
    
    
    • Auto trim and moulding tool set (if you want to keep your Miata interior plugs reusable)
    
    
    
    
  
  
  • Other General Shop Equipment
    
    
    
    • Good hand soap (it’s hard to beat GOJO)
    
    
    • Decent shop rags
    
    
    • Drain pans and storage containers for fluids. Keep ‘em separate, label, recycle.
    
    
    • 4 Jackstands with a shallow curve at the top
    
    
    • Low-enough profile jack (depending on your height tastes)
    
    
    
    
  
  
  
  

[Lonny]

This is good information, I think quite a few potential kit builders will convince themselves that they will have to buy a shop full of expensive specialty tools to build a kit.

A few hundred dollars at harbor freight and your good to go.